Qinghai—a vast, high-altitude province in western China, perched on the northeastern part of the Tibetan Plateau. It’s named after the stunning Qinghai Lake, the largest inland saltwater lake in the country. But let me tell you, riding here isn’t your typical spin around the block.
I flew into Xining, the capital, sitting pretty at just over 2,000 meters. “Not so bad,” I thought, barely noticing the altitude. Easy confidence—soon to be humbled.
By the third day, I decided to tackle Laji Mountain. As I climbed past 3,000 meters, the air began to thin. My power dropped—10, maybe 20 watts shy of what I’d push back at sea level, all at the same heart rate. Then came the headache, a dull throbbing in sync with my pulse.
At 3,820 meters, stubborn as ever, I stood up to sprint. Big mistake. Within seconds, my body shut down. Dizzy, disoriented, I could barely remember my own name. This, my friends, is the real Qinghai—beautiful, but fierce.
The weather here shifts on a dime. under the blazing sun, temperatures can hit 30°C. But when night falls, it drops to barely 10°C. I learned the hard way: dress in layers. A midday ride in shorts and a jersey feels glorious; that same evening, you’ll be shivering in long sleeves. And if it rains? Bring out the winter gear—even a thermal jacket might not feel like enough.
Then there’s the sun. Oh, the sun. Qinghai’s UV rays don’t play around. Even when it’s cloudy, they find you. I remember one afternoon during the Tour of Qinghai Lake—the sky was overcast, and I got careless. Half an hour later, my arms were two shades darker. Now I never ride without sleeves, a sun jacket, and a buff. Lesson learned.
But it’s not all challenges. The roads here are smooth, traffic is light, and the views… oh, the views. Vast highlands, serene lakes, skies that go on forever. Just keep an eye out for the locals—sheep dart across roads, and little pika rabbits scurrying under your wheels. I’ve seen more than a few “pika pancakes” on the roadside—a sobering reminder to stay alert, especially on descents.
Yes, Qinghai challenged me—tested my body, my preparation, my will. But riding here is also pure magic. From the green hills of Haibei to the stark beauty of Haixi, every turn reveals something breathtaking. It’s a feeling that’s hard to put into words. You just have to live it.
So if you ever get the chance—ride Qinghai. Come humble, come prepared. And you’ll leave with memories—and stories—that last a lifetime.
